While traveling through The Gambia, I was surprised by the fact that I hardly came across any other travelers once I moved upriver. In fact, most other toubabs I met based themselves in one of the coastal areas and explored the country from there.

While I enjoyed moving around the country independently, I could also see the appeal of hanging out in one of the laid-back kombos by the sea and doing day-trips to the surrounding attractions. That said, figuring out where exactly to base yourself really depends on what kind of experience you’re after.

Here’s everything I learned from visiting the different towns of Coastal Gambia.

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Where to Base Yourself in The Gambia

Kololi – Best for Nightlife and Convenience

If you want to be in the thick of things, Kololi is the most developed and tourist-friendly part of The Gambia. It’s got the highest concentration of hotels, restaurants, bars, and beach resorts, which are mostly centered around the small Senegambia Strip.

This is where you’ll find a mix of expats and tourists enjoying the nightlife, with everything from chilled beach bars to loud clubs open until the early hours. The beach here is decent, although I came across much nicer ones farther south and the bumsters (touts) can get a little overwhelming.

If you want an easy base with good infrastructure, Kololi seems to be the classic choice, but if you prefer a quieter (or more local) atmosphere, you might want to look elsewhere. Personally, I didn’t really like Kololi, but I admit that I’m a bit particular when it comes to touristy places. I met plenty of people who stayed here and loved the experience.

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Bakau & Cape Point – Best for a Local Feel with Some Comfort

Bakau is a busy, authentic town with a strong local character, while Cape Point, just next door, has a more relaxed, upscale feel. In Bakau, you’ll find the famous Kachikally Crocodile Pool, a lively produce market, a tiny Botanical Garden and a cool little fishing beach to explore.

The coastline is rugged in parts, but there are some nice beachfront spots, especially around Cape Point. The area has a few well-established hotels and guesthouses, and offers a good mix between touristic infrastructure and a more local feel (compared to Kololi, at least).

I liked walking around Bakau – there’s more of a sense of everyday Gambian life here, plus it’s also close to Banjul, and a few gelly-gellys and bush taxis pass this way on their way to the capital.

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Kotu – Best for Nature and Bird Watching

Kotu is like a quieter, more relaxed version of Kololi. The beach here is wide, clean, and not as busy, and while there are a handful of hotels and restaurants, it doesn’t have the same level of nightlife (and amount of bumsters) as Kololi: great if you prefer a relaxed sunset drink over clubbing.

On my trip, I met a few birdwatchers, who chose to stay in Kotu. There are three main spots for birders in the area: Kotu Ponds, Kotu Cycle Path and Kotu Stream. All three of them are nice enough places to check out, even if you’re not specifically looking for birds (I wasn’t either, although I spotted quite a few). I especially liked the bucolic surroundings of Kotu Stream.

Also, if you feel like you really need some comfort food or some nightlife action, Kololi and the Senegambia Strip aren’t too far away to the West, making Kotu a good place to stay if you want to be near the action but not in the middle of it.

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Serekunda – Best for Transport and Budget Travel

Serekunda is The Gambia’s biggest and arguably most chaotic city and lies a few kilometers inland from the coast. I stayed in the area for 5 days before moving south and then upriver, and I chose to base myself here for two reasons.

For one, the guesthouses here are a lot cheaper than the hotels by the sea, where of course you’re paying for location as well as luxury. Secondly, Serekunda is the country’s main transport hub with gelly-gelly and bush taxi connections to Banjul, the Southern Coast, Abruko and everything in between.

I knew that instead of lazing by the beach, I mainly wanted to explore the nature reserves and towns in the area, so staying in Serekunda made sense for me. I also just liked walking around the super busy streets and back-alleys and checking out the lively main market near Westfield Junction.

Serekunda is a good choice if you’re planning to do more exploring than relaxing. I stayed at the cheap and friendly Sarawally Guesthouse near the northern end of Kairaba Avenue. There are a few other guesthouses in the area, but most of them seem to be rather dingy, so I won’t recommend them here.

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Bijilo – A More Peaceful Spot Near the Action

If you like being close to Kololi but prefer a quieter base, Bijilo is a great choice. The beach is wide and peaceful, with fewer touts, making it ideal for strolling around without constantly warding off bumsters (although I still met a few in the area).

One of the top sights in the area is Bijilo Forest Park (aka. Monkey Park), where you can spot lots of green monkeys and red colobus monkeys while walking around a pretty patch of forest overlooking the Ocean (please don’t feed the monkeys like some people unfortunately do).

Staying in Bijilo means you’re close to nature, but still just a short ride from Senegambia’s bars and restaurants. Accommodation ranges from small guesthouses to mid-range resorts, with an altogether more relaxed feel compared to Kololi.

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Gunjur and Kartong – Getting Away From It All

If you’re looking for a peaceful retreat away from the main tourist areas, Kartong and Gunjur are great options. These two coastal villages have broad, empty beaches with some eco-lodges, and an altogether more traditional Gambian feel. Gunjur is home to a famous fishing beach and the Bolong Fenyo Reserve, a favourite among birdwatchers.

I however, really liked Kartong near the Senegalese border, which had a very laid-back atmosphere, but still lots of things to see. There’s another Crocodile Pool, which is much less touristy compared to Kachikally, as well as an Amphibian Rescue Centre and a cool little art gallery displaying paintings by Gambian artists.

It’s also just a nice place to walk around aimlessly and explore the small back-alleys, as well as the pretty area surrounding the Allahein River near the Senegalese border (definitely one of the most attractive border crossings I ever came across).

If the northern coast gets a little overwhelming or has too many tourists for your taste, the Gunjur and Kartong are a great alternative. And who knows – maybe you like the local atmosphere so much that you decide to move upriver next.

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So, Where Should You Stay in Coastal Gambia?

As always, it depends on your personal preference. If you’re a first time visitor to Africa or don’t feel like leaving your comfort zone too much, I’d recommend staying in Kololi or Kotu for an easy introduction to The Gambia. If you want a bit more culture and local life, Bakau and Cape Point offer a great balance.

For a more unique, less touristy experience, Serekunda and Kartong are great choices. The nice thing is that no matter where you base yourself, getting around by public transport or more expensive private taxis is fairly simple, so you can always explore different areas during your stay.

The Gambia is an incredibly welcoming country, and I found the people to be some of the friendliest I’ve met in Africa. Once you’ve familiarized yourself with the coastal area, I highly recommend moving upriver to explore the cool inland towns and National Parks.