Most people familiar with recent African history have probably heard the name of Gulu at some time or other. From the 1980s to the mid-2000s, Gulu and Northwestern Uganda in general were embroiled in the devastating conflict between the Ugandan Government and Joseph Kony’s Lord’s Resistance Army (LRA), a situation which only improved in the last decade and a half.
While we didn’t specifically plan to stop in Gulu during our travels through Uganda, we still had to break up our journey from Mbale to Masindi here, due to some delays during the trip. What we encountered was a city full of cordial locals, which showed more signs of a bright future than wounds from the recent troubles.
There may not be many traditional sights in Gulu, but we were very happy to unexpectedly have experienced this little-visited part of the country and its unique atmosphere. Here’s everything we learned during our trip to the city.
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What to See and Do in Gulu
Gulu doesn’t have any sights in the traditional sense. It’s more about soaking up the atmosphere of a city that is off the tourist trail, even by Ugandan standards. Mzungus are a rare sight in this corner of the country, and you’ll likely get an even warmer reception than you’re already used to.
That said, there are a couple of low-key attractions in town, including a few surprisingly grandiose church buildings. We especially liked the Holy Rosary Catholic Church on Jomo Kenyatta Road near the main market, whose facade reminded us of Basilicas from Renaissance-era Italy.
At the big roundabout at the intersection of Main Street and Coronation Street stands a Peace Monument depicting two reading children next to a tall pile of books, which was erected in 2009 to mark the end of the violent conflicts with the LRA. Gulu also seems to be a good base if you plan on exploring northwestern Uganda more thoroughly.
A historic site you can easily visit is the remains of a fort established by 19th-century explorer Samuel Baker in nearby Patiko. As I explained, we were only in town by accident and wanted to continue to Masindi, so I can’t give you any first-hand information on that, but apparently, you can reach the fort by boda-boda (I suggest just asking around near the bus station).
How to Get to Gulu
Gulu can easily be reached from all the bigger cities in Uganda, and there are good highways going to Kampala and the Mbale/Sipi-Falls-Area. Both Link and Post Buses go from Gulu to other bigger cities in the country, while smaller nearby towns like Masindi or Hoima can be reached by matatu.
The bus park is two blocks east of the big roundabout at the intersection of Main Street and Acholi Road (the one with the Peace Monument).
Hotels in Gulu
As we really only needed a place to lay our heads for a bit, we stayed at the super basic, super cheap Binen Inn on Coronation Road, but if you’re looking for something more than concrete walls and shared cold-water showers, there are quite a few hotels in town, like the well-rated Northern Pearl Hotel or the slightly more luxurious Acholi Inn.
Restaurants in Gulu
There are a few cheap eateries around the Bus Park and the big roundabout with the peace monument, where you can get the typical dishes of meat with matoke. We grabbed a bite at the PYK Restaurant on Queen’s Road, which had rooftop views of Gulu and served Ugandan as well as Indian fare.
Where to Go Next
Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda’s Best Safari Destination