La Gomera might look tiny on a map, but during our stay on the island, we quickly realized that it can make quite a big difference where you base yourself. The craggy terrain and wildly different microclimates mean that two towns that are only 20 kilometres apart can feel like completely different worlds.

We actually changed our base twice. We stayed in Playa Santiago in the south for the first few days, then moved to Las Hayas in the centre and ended up in Hermigua in the north. That way, we could explore different parts of the island without driving around too much on a day-by-day basis.

That said, if you don’t feel like changing your accommodations, you can easily look for a single base and explore the island from there. In this post, I’ll tell you about the pros and cons of staying in the different parts of La Gomera.

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Where to Stay on La Gomera

Valle Gran Rey – Best for Convenience

Valle Gran Rey is the most ‘touristy’ part of the island, but that’s not saying too much on La Gomera. This is worlds away from the resort areas of Gran Canaria or even Tenerife, but we still kind of preferred the other parts of the island, which felt a bit quieter.

That said, the valley is spread out over several little neighbourhoods and some of them (like La Calera) have a more laid-back feel to them. The areas closer to the Ocean are full of bars, cafés and restaurants with both local food and lots of international options.

There’s also plenty to do here. Firstly, there are a few popular beaches in the area, as well as the trailheads for some really good hikes, like the one into the Barranco de Arure. Most operators that offer boat trips to go whale and dolphin spotting are based here, as well (we used Oceano Excursions).

Apart from the touristy feel, the only real downside to staying here is that it’s a bit of a detour from some of the island’s other sights, so day trips to the north or east take longer than from other bases, especially if you’re going by public transport.

San Sebastián – Best for Culture and Transport

San Sebastián is the island’s tiny capital and the place where the ferry from Tenerife arrives, so for most people it’s the first bit of La Gomera they see (it certainly was for us). We found it pretty enough, but you can basically see everything worthwhile in town in about half a day.

The town has some interesting museums, a nice seafront, two small beaches and a decent number of bars, restaurants and cafés, although a lot of them were closed when we visited in winter. The main reason to stay here, however, would be the useful transport situation.

If you don’t have a rental car, this is by far the most practical base, as many of the island’s main bus routes radiate out from here. From San Sebastián, you can get to Valle Gran Rey, Hermigua, Vallehermoso, Agulo and the National Park by public transport, all without changing buses.

We, on the other hand, rented a car and if you do the same, then I’d say there are nicer parts of the island to stay in.

Playa Santiago – Best for Sunny Weather

If you’re coming to La Gomera mainly to enjoy the sun, the south of the island is your best bet. It’s much drier and sunnier than the rest of the island, which is especially useful in the winter, when the weather in the rest of the island can be a bit hit or miss.

We were on La Gomera in December and occasionally, when it was raining in the mountains or on the northern coast, we simply drove for half an hour to the southern part of the island and were greeted by bright sunshine.

The main town and most convenient place to stay in the south would be Playa Santiago, which has a cute little beach and a few waterfront restaurants. We stayed at Apartmentos La Banda for the first three days of our trip.

If you want something even quieter and have your own set of wheels, we also really liked pretty Alajeró, which is a bit higher up in the mountains, as well as the tiny hamlets in the Barranco de Santiago, some of which have Casas Rurales for rent.

The North – Best for a Quiet Stay

With its banana plantations and steep, green valleys, the north of La Gomera feels very different from the sunnier south. It’s also much calmer, and we saw fewer tourists here than almost everywhere else on the island.

This might be because the sea is a lot wilder here, so swimming is often not an option, even though we found some of the nicest beaches on the island in the north. We also really liked the pretty and quiet villages, including Hermigua, where we stayed at Apartmentos Playa at the end of our trip.

Another place you shouldn’t miss in this corner of the island is Agulo, which to me is the most beautiful village on La Gomera. The north is a nice area to stay if you enjoy hiking and strolling around small villages more than lazing by the beach. Just be aware that it can get cloudy and wet at times.

The Centre – Best for Hiking in the National Park

If hiking is high on your agenda, then staying somewhere in the central highlands near Garajonay National Park makes a lot of sense. Small villages like Las Hayas or Chipude sit right at the edge of the park.

We stayed in Jardin Las Hayas for two days, from where it was easy to reach the laurel forests and awesome viewpoints of the Garajonay National Park. Some of the island’s best hikes start right by the GM-2 Highway, which crosses the park from west to east.

The downside is that these places can get very chilly in the winter, especially at night. They are also super quiet, which can be a pro or con depending on what you’re looking for (we loved it). There are only a few restaurants and not much to do in the evenings beyond stargazing, which was very much to our taste.

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