Apart from the Hike to Boiling Lake, the Waitukubuli Trail probably is Dominica’s best-known hiking-trail. Named after the Kalinago term for Dominica, it traverses the entire island and, being divided into 14 segments, takes two weeks to complete in its entirety. Given Dominica’s general beauty, I can only imagine that hiking the complete trail is an awesome experience.
If you don’t have the time to walk it from beginning to end, hiking only a section is a good alternative to get at least a little taste of what the trail has to offer. As our time the island was limited, we decided to do exactly that and to hike the very first segment of the trail from Scott’s Head to Soufrière.
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What Segment of the Waitukubuli Trail should I hike?
We took some time deciding which of the 14 segments we should do as a day-hike and decided on the first one mainly for two reasons. We found it to be one of the few segments that a) had easy-to-reach trailheads at the beginning and end and b) didn’t at least partly traverse a part of the island that we had already seen or meant to visit at some other point anyway.
Especially section 4 to 7 of the trail get pretty close to some of the islands more famous natural attractions like Freshwater Lake, Middleham Falls, the Emerald Pool and the Kalinago Territory.
Section 1 on the other hand leads through an attractive part of the island, which we wouldn’t have seen otherwise. At least in the beginning, it affords nice views of the sea and Scott’s Head peninsula, is (mostly) easy to navigate and can be done in 4 or 5 hours.
Furthermore, the starting point is easy to reach by Minibus and the fact that the section ends in Soufrière means that you can reward yourself by taking a bath in the warm springs.
How to get to Scott’s Head
There are regular minibuses leaving from near the Old Market in Roseau. If you’re coming from any other part of the island, you’ll probably have to connect in Roseau.
What to see in Scott’s Head
Scott’s head is a pretty fishing village at the very southern tip of the island. Remains of an 18th century fortification can still be seen on the small peninsula jutting out to the west. The Caribantic Building at the trailhead serves as an information centre for the trail and sells snacks and drinks, so you can gather some energy before setting off.
That’s pretty much everything to see in the village, although it’s fun just to explore the small alleyways in between the colourful houses and flowery front yards.
The hike from Scott’s Head to Soufrière
The first section is reputedly one of the easier parts of the trail and apart from some slightly challenging terrain in the beginning it’s actually pretty easy to navigate. You start from the Caribantic Building in Scott’s Head and slowly make your ascent through the village to the flanks of Morne Crabier.
You should turn around every once in a while to enjoy the views of the Atlantic and the Caribbean to either site of the Scott’s Head peninsula. Once you enter the woodland, there are a couple of tricky sections on the path climbing up to the plateau.
Recent tropical storms have caused some landslides and the remains have to be navigated with a bit of care. Take your time and they shouldn’t pose much of a problem. Once you reach the plateau, you’ll be rewarded with some fantastic views down to the sea and the peninsula, where you started.
There’s a beautiful pasture you’ll have to cross before continuing almost to the top of Morne Crabier, where you can pause and catch your breath in a small shelter. Take your care when descending on the other side, which is pretty steep and can be slippery.
Once you’ve reached the bottom, you’ll have to turn left and then it won’t take long until you’ll meet a paved road that you’ll have to follow northwards for a bit. After about 500m, turn right onto a signposted trail that connects with another paved road at the end.
Turn left and follow the road past some smaller farms and homes until you arrive in Soufrière, which in my opinion, is one of the islands prettiest villages.
What to see and do in Soufrière
Soufrière is a pretty seaside village offering nice views along the coast and back to your starting point at Scott’s Head. The small St. Mark’s Church is particularly photogenic – take a peek inside if you have the chance!
Otherwise you could eat a well-deserved fish meal in one of the restaurants along the shore. If you’re a fan of the Pirates of the Caribbean Films: Some scenes from the Cannibal Village in the second movie where shot on the small grassy plateau near the road to the west of Soufrière.
Apart from that, you could check out the nearby Marine Reserve, which is a famous snorkeling spot, although we unfortunately didn’t have the time to go snorkeling there ourselves, so we can’t really tell you any more about it.
Relaxing in the Soufrière Sulphur Springs
What better way to unwind after your hike than by relaxing in some warm springs? The Soufrière Sulphur Springs can be found to the east of the village along the beginning of Section 2 of the National Trail.
It’s a beautiful place to unwind for a bit in the lush natural surroundings. The springs are included in Dominica’s Ecotourism site-pass, which is 5$ (13.25 ECD) per day or 12$ (32.04 ECD) per week and allows you to visit as many sites as you manage in that time.
Where to stay in Soufrière
We stayed at Rodney’s Wellness Retreat, where we could hang our camping hammock in the pleasant garden area for about 40 ECD. If you prefer a roof over your head, the nearby Soufrière Guesthouse would be a good option. If money isn’t a concern, Jungle Bay Dominica is an Eco Lodge with an impeccable reputation.
Where to go next
Trafalgar, Wotten Waven and Morne Trois Pitons National Park
